I always had a fascination for the Brahmaputra. The stories that I heard of it since childhood.
The first introduction to Brahmpautra came from my dad's friend's wife, who was from Guwahati and was visiting us for a few days in Kanyakumari. It was in the early 90s. She said she lived within a walking distance of the Brahmaputra and said standing on one side you cannot see the other side of the river in many places.
Is it bigger than the ocean? Does it have fish? Where does the water come from? It's not salty? How? I was full of questions, I remember her answer to each one of them.
Back in school at Vivekananda Kendra be it Niveditha Didi or any of the exchange students that came from the Northeast had their own versions and stories of the river. Fast forward 20 years.
It was in Nagaland during the Hornbill festival that a solo traveler told me about Majuli, an island in the Brahmaputra that he was visiting next. The moment I heard the name I knew I was going there. But not until Shillong. After spending Christmas and New year in Shillong, I decided to drive through Assam.
Most parts of the drive was through the Kaziranga national park. So I decided to halt there for a night. Thankfully a solo traveler had already suggested a place that is ideal for me, Since the park majorly promotes family audience the accommodation for solo travelers are very limited. I however decided to skip the game safari as well. A campfire night with the hotel staff talking about their experiences in Kaziranga and also sharing my driving experience from Kanyakumari. Some meat and strong rice beer put me to sleep early and I was waiting to get on the road early in the morning. The roads were empty mostly and I was zipping through. I was really excited to get my first proper glimpse of the river.
All the fascination I had for the river was so true. And I couldn't have been more excited. For the first time, I was going to park my car on a ferry and travel for an hour in the mighty Brahmaputra. Conversations with curious fellow passengers about where I come from. Once they confirm that I am driving from the south they get excited. Their wide smile and surprised stare said it all. When they hear I am from Kanyakumari their excitement doubles.
While on the ferry, something else happened. Something that I started noticing a few months before the trip. How the universe guides us in every step we take. I knew I was going to be in Majuli for a while. The question was where do I go next? This was in the back of my mind even before reaching Majuli. Knowing that I am driving from the south and considering that I am in Majuli after my Uttarakhand trip, someone came up to me. He came to me with a formal namaste and asked "aap Puri Jaaoge? meaning Are you going to Puri?". I was shocked to hear it. I drew a blank. How do you know? I do have Puri on my list but I don't know when I am going. Maybe in a year or two, I said. He immediately pulled out a pile of cash rolled in an envelope from his bag and handed it over to me. He continued saying, "My mom wanted me to go to Puri and put it in Jagganath temple. When I saw you I thought I should give it to you. Can you do it?" I was hesitant. But then my logical mind was off. I was just looking at this person in aww. For trusting some random guy on a ferry. I knew my next destination was Puri. The divinity of this man and his mother is taking me to my next stop. Jai Jagganath! we both said it aloud as I took the envelope from him.
The routine was clear every day. Go to the ghats and watch the sunset over the Brahmaputra. This collage is a perfect tribute to Majuli's beautiful sunsets.
Majuli is also the cultural capital of Assam. It is rightly so. Be it pottery, painting, dance, or art the locals had their thing for it. Most of the culture is derived from the South Tamilnadu, Kerala, Karnataka put together. It is said that saint Srimanta Shankardeva travelled across South India in the 15th century and formed the NEw Vaishnavite Bhakti movement in Majuli. Later this goes on to play a significant role in shaping the culture of Assam itself. Being an island in extreme harsh conditions and mostly cut off from the rest of the world during monsoons these activities have kept the thousands of locals together. I was lucky to be visiting this place right at the time of Bihu.
Throughout my trip meeting, solo travelers from across the country was nothing short of a magical experience in itself. It is fascinating to see how people with similar interest get together and days and night don't seem to be enough for them. For the days we are together you are just together. You travel, eat, drink, smoke, dance, listen to music - all together like you have known each other for a lifetime. Nothing short. Of the 20 days these are few amazing folks I met. Bottom left photo is with Lt.Colonel Adithya. HE is with the Indian army and we spent a few days together exploring Majuli. Bottom right is Hemangha.
Hemangha is from Assam and we met in 2020 in Varanashi and then again in Kedarnath in 2020 and 2021. Majuli was 150kms away from his home and so HEmangha drove all the way with some homecooked delicacies. Later on, when I left Majuli I happened to visit his home and meet his family. I don't know how these relationships happen. But they just happen. Thank you for all the love, my brother. The others in the photo have stories of their own. We shared some amazing moments together and we do know that it will happen again. Until then we cherish those moments.
Definitely, Majuli is one place that is close to my heart. I don't know when I will ever go back to this place again. But for now leaving you with a few magical sunsets. These people, goats, ducks, kids, sunsets, memories will stay with me for a lifetime.
Thanks, Universe 💗🙏