It was the end of November 2021. I had spent over a month in Varanashi and I was getting ready for my next destination. The Hornbill festival in Nagaland. Referred to as the festival of festivals, I had no clue about what to expect or where to go but I knew I had to just go. I was not alone. Kashika, the girl who I met in Gokarna, happened to meet again in Varanashi. Being the crazy one, she was all set to travel with me. It was more of her decision to travel with me and wasn't a choice for me 😉 The solo travel took a break for a while. I along with Kashi drove through the states of Bihar, West Bengal, Assam, and Nagaland.
It was one helluva drive throughout. Kashika (Kashi) getting stared at for no particular reason in Bihar, getting stopped in the middle road coz someone was just shot dead, sleeping in the car in a toll plaza at night, catching a magical sunrise driving through the golden orange rays of the sun, getting lost in the tea estates bordering Assam and Bhutan, getting a good sleep in a hostel in Guwahati, eating momos, pineapples, oranges, and our endless silence.
December is the most celebrated month in most of the states in the northeast, and Kohima was no exception. Being the festival week the entire city of Kohima was full and in festive mode. Accommodation prices were over the roof. ₹1500 a night for a basic tent and upwards of ₹3500 if you want a private room. The festival happens at  Kisama Heritage Village 12km away from Kohima city. This village is a showcase of Nagaland to the rest of the world. Kashi and I continued to sleep in the car for the next two nights in the village. The late-night parties, the rice beer, and the love of the Nagas shared with us kept us going. The music festival happens every evening. Below is a video playlist of a few performances.
For me personally, the best part about the Hornbill festival is the after-parties. Each of the 16 recognized tribes gets an area to showcase the tribe's tradition. The best engaging tribe wins at the end of the festival. This space is called a Morung. Traditionally, Morungs are places at the village center. The youth of the village assemble here to play games, log drums, other cultural activities, and community events. Here's one such Tribe gaining the attention of visitors. They are inviting people to their Morung with this log drum.
Once you are in the Morung with the respective tribe the real party starts. A nominal amount is charged for the rice beer and snacks when the party starts. As it goes late into the night, the beer is free.
I, Kashi, and a few travelers spent most of the time in the after-parties at the Morung. I wish I had taken more photos and videos of these moments. But anyway I have a few and put them together in this video. This is not a 5% representation of the real fun that happens at the parties but yeah it should give you an idea.
On one of the nights, we were sloshed. Our necks couldn't hold our heads anymore. And then we got invited by a few locals to their Morung. They treated us. Rice beer, smoked pork in Akhuni, grasshopper pickle, and ginger powder with chicken 😋. We managed to pose and this series of pics happened.
Unfortunately, the Hornbill festival 2021 came to a halt on the fourth day. A local shooting incident by the Indian Army where a few locals got killed. Reminding all of us that the area is still sensitive and the state is doing its bit to keep it calm. Â But that didn't stop us from having fun in Kohima. The people are extremely friendly and it didn't seem like an issue. Every evening Kashi, I, and 3 other boys that Kashi had known from previous travels were all set to explore the land of Nagas.